We booked a last minute flight to Milano, me and Joakim, to meet up with Gustav at arrival. Gustav had been away since June traveling in his refurnished camper van all around Europe. Jocke and I decided to join him for his last couple of weeks on the road including the drive back to Sweden. The plan was to start off in Italy and slowly travel north while trying to hit the best climbing spots along the road and occasionally get some mountain biking done. Our first stop was Finale Ligure, a small town on the Italian Riviera, not far from Savone. This was a great place to start since Gustav and Joakim were already familiar to the area, they knew where to park and where to find the good crags. We spent the first few nights at an abandoned camping spot, still equipped with drinking water and the possibility of a cold shower. In addition it was really close to the first crag, Settore La Torre on Monte Cucco. This crag was exactly what we came for – the famous Mediterranean limestone filled with cavities making steeper climbs and overhangs slightly easier to tackle. But there was another significant difference compared to the granite walls we were used to. Due to the porosity of limestone the grips were polished on the more popular routes making it very slippery in places. That took some time to get used to and caused several falls due to sliding off and made you spend some extra time searching for holds you could actually trust. The climbing was incredible though and on the first day we did one of the trips’ highlights, the corner of La Torre, an airy 5c multi-pitch ending on the nose of La Torre. This is one of the most epic climbs I’ve done because of its height, exposure and the consistency in difficulty. The scenery when reaching the top definitely didn’t make it worse.
The second day didn’t turn out as planned. We spent hours searching for a route we had spotted in the guide book, we tried combining different maps and GPS but weren’t able to locate the starting point. In addition Jocke stumbled in the rough terrain and sprained his ankle. Trying not to let that get on to us we eventually decided for another crag in the area which was easier to find. After a few pitches the sun began to set and we have to call it a day. The next day I and Gustav decided to switch from climbing shoes to biking shoes and let Jocke rest his foot for a bit. The trail started at the abandoned NATO base and reached almost all the way back to the town. It was a fun varying track with both long flowy sections, steeper, more technical sections and a few jumps and drops. The best aspect of the trail was its length, the descent lasted more than 40 minutes (including some photoshoots along the way). After a quick lunch we headed back to Monte Cucco for some afternoon climbing and you really couldn’t ask for more; world class climbing and biking on the same day.
On the fourth day the weather turned worse, clouds came in and the wind increased. We decided to leave Finale for some place with a more promising forecast. Before we left we wanted to get one last taste of the Finale climbing and redid the multi-pitch on La Torre (although a slightly different second pitch) and had some lunch at the top. It was pretty cold and windy up there and it seemed like Monte Cucco and Finale had had enough of us. The forecast seemed promising for Lake Garda, hence our next stop was Arco, a town at the northern tip of the lake.
When approaching Lake Garda the mountains grow higher and more spectacular. We spent the first night at a view point to have breakfast while watching the sun rise above Arco, the lake and the surrounding mountains. We had gotten a great tip from my sisters’ friend to try a multi-pitch named Ape Maia. It was a 200 meter 6b route, divided into 5 pitches and that sounded like a great challenge for the day. Ape Maia became another highlight of the trip. The mood was top notch throughout the whole climb which took 3-4 hours to complete. The feeling of being on the middle of a wall of that height is hard to beat and since you’re really focused on what you are doing the fear of heights seldom gets to you. The upcoming day it was time to start moving towards Scandinavia and after a day of single pitches in Massone (one of the most popular crags around Arco) we left for a short stop in Latsch. In the morning we went for another mountain bike ride before crossing the border to Austria. The trail named Holy Hansen was really beautiful with great flow throughout the whole trail. The needles had fallen off the trees coloring the ground orange and made it even more spectacular. We reached our destination, Bludenz in Austria, just in time for a short climbing session before nightfall. The limestone had turned into granite and here we felt at home with the kind of friction and sharp edges we were used to.
In Bludenz we visited some friends Gustav had made on his journey and they let us stay for the night and have a shower which was more than welcoming. At night we had some beer together and tried the local special; roasted chestnuts with dried ham. After another day of climbing in Bludenz the end of the journey was approaching. We drove back to Sweden in two and a half days sleeping in Hamburg, doing some indoor climbing in Lubeck and spending the last night in Bjuv, randomly crashing outside Mattias Fältströms house.
Living three tall guys in a van is a bit exhausting in the long run, it was pretty cramped at night and you had to wait in line to handle your belongings. At least we kept each other warm during the cold nights. Although it has its ups and downs the freedom of always being mobile and being able to go wherever you want whenever you want is unbeatable.